Completing the David Goggins 4/4/48 Running Challenge

Yorkshire Dales, UK • August 2020 • Length of Read: 10 Minutes

We’ve all had that feeling of being stuck in our comfort zone, procrastinating away those tasks and activities that we know deep down will help us grow and develop as people. Instead of waking up at 6 am to sweat out that gym session, we hit the snooze button. Instead of working on that personal project, we lay in front of the television. Instead of studying for that exam, we needlessly scroll through our social media accounts. Old habits do indeed die hard.

That’s why, in 2008, when entrepreneur Jesse Itzler fell into a routine that he couldn’t get out of, he decided to take extreme action: by inviting a fully-fledged Navy SEAL to stay with him for 30 days and handing over complete control of his schedule. This SEAL was David Goggins, an ultra-runner and all-round badass. “If you’re crazy enough to ask a guy like me to come and live with you,” he’d said to Itzler, “then motherfucker I’m crazy enough to come.”

As documented in Itzler’s book Living with a SEAL, over the course of a month the pair undertook a series of bizarre physical and mental challenges; from submerging themselves in a frozen lake, to spontaneous burpee tests during business meetings, to running through a blizzard. Due to its absurdness, however, one challenge stood out head and shoulders above all others, capturing the minds of hundreds of like-minded individuals looking to push themselves to new limits: The 4x4x48 challenge - run 4 miles every 4 hours for 48 hours.

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RUN #1 - 4/48 MILES - 8AM

It didn’t take much persuasion to convince my friends Jay and Gadams to join me on this undertaking, and no sooner had I pitched the idea were we searching for a suitable location. We wanted somewhere relatively equidistant from our hometowns, somewhere in the countryside where we could add scenery to our runs, and somewhere we could switch up the terrain and 4-mile routes at ease. The beautiful Yorkshire Dales ticked all of these boxes.

And that’s how we found ourselves in the car park of Fawston Reservoir in South Yorkshire on a rainy Thursday at 7:50 am, dressed as the 118-118 characters from the popular early 00’s TV advert. As we limbered up I was noticeably nervous and, despite not being under any time pressure or having any competition, still had those distinct butterflies that accompany pre-race jitters. Raising money for Age UK in the process, we had agreed to don fancy dress costumes at each £250 milestone.

Two guys of similar age to ourselves appeared from the public path, soaked to the bone, and upon seeing us bounced over with smiles like we were old friends.

“Love the costumes, guys,” said the shorter of the two, his purple marathon finisher’s t-shirt indicating that he wasn’t your fair-weather athlete. “We’ve just finished a 21 km loop. What are you up to?”

“We’re running the David Goggins 4x4x48 challenge for charity,” explained Jay.

“Ah yeah, I’ve heard of that. Here, let me take your photo. How many runs have you completed so far?”

“This is the start line,” admitted Gadams as the three of us huddled in for a picture.

“No wonder you look so fresh and cheery,” he said, handing back the iPhone and turning towards his car. “We need to head off to work now, but best of luck to you.”

We gave them thanks and as they departed we started our watches and set-off. The first part of the route took us along an A-road and the tooting horns of commuting cars offered some early support as we hollered ‘Got your number’ at each passing smile. The path then dropped down through a forest, winding its way to the banks of the reservoir where for 6 peaceful kilometers we circumnavigated the beautiful body of water. The first of twelve runs was an absolute breeze and as we stretched out our legs on the homeward section I couldn’t help but think to myself: ‘how hard can this challenge be?’

RUN #2 - 8/48 MILES - 12PM

After a large bowl of porridge for breakfast, Jay set out on a reconnaissance mission in his car to scout some future routes, returning half-an-hour later and boasting of a monster hill that we should incorporate into our second run. Still naïve to the challenge ahead, Gadams and I agreed wholeheartedly, and as we exited our farmhouse base at midday to blue skies we were raring to go.

Our costume of choice this time around was bananas, and as we strode onto the country road a vista of fields and hedgerows stretched as far as the eye could see. Unfortunately, our costumes made taking in these picturesque surroundings rather difficult. As did the persistent headwind, which effectively turned our bananas into buffers. It was like trying to run with an open parachute on your back. About a mile in, an oncoming Range Rover slowed to a halt and a well-dressed elderly gentleman stuck his head out of the driver-side window. “Are you guys running for charity?” he beamed, clearly entertained. It can’t be that often you see a bunch of bananas running about your backroads, I suppose. “Those costumes are fantastic. Give me the link to your donation page and I’ll be sure to contribute.”

Despite a knee injury having impacted my training schedule, my legs were feeling good. We continued on a declining gradient until the 3-mile mark, at which the dreaded hill appeared ahead of us like Mount Everest: a vertical mile of tarmac stretching skywards to the farmhouse. There was nothing for it but to face my head down and keep the motor running. The banana costume soaked up sweat like a sponge and became heavier and heavier with every shuffling step, but again the excitement of passers-by and their hoking horns motivated me to the top and the completion of mile number eight.

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RUN #3 - 12/48 MILES - 4PM

We returned to the reservoir-loop for our third run, having spent the afternoon recovering in the hot tub and piling on the calories. It was apparent that our caloric intake would be through the roof for the duration of the challenge as our bodies tried to replenish the energy exerted every four hours. Anticipating this, we had carefully prepared our meals in advance so that we could feast immediately after each run and maximize our digestive and recovery time. Fitting then that we were now adorned in chefs hats and aprons, having surpassed the £750 donation mark.

As the sun beat down on us I fell behind Gadams and Jay, my knee becoming more and more uncomfortable with each twist and turn in the trail. I tried to keep the grimace from my face, but my worst fear was being realized much earlier in the challenge than I had anticipated. The IT-band runs from your glute down the outside of your thigh muscle and is a common injury among runners that can sideline them for months. When inflamed, it causes an unmistakable pain on the outside of your knee that feels like the stabbing of a dagger. Barely 10-miles into the challenge and I already was beginning to limp.

The reservoir was packed with visitors; couples out for romantic afternoon strolls, families pushing their babies in prams, and elderly friends out for a relaxing chat in the sunshine. Had I been alone and dressed less ridiculously then I may well have fallen into a walk. When you’re chasing two other chefs who also look like they are fleeing a burning kitchen, however, pride and self-consciousness come to the fore. The mantra ‘don’t care what other people think’ is a good one to live by, but at that moment in time caring what every passer-by was thinking served as the ultimate motivator to keep my legs going. Blocking out the pain, I completed the 4 miles in my slowest time yet, spurred on by the shout of ‘hurry up, you’ll be late for dinner’ coming from a small child out playing with her family.

RUN #4 - 16/48 MILES - 8PM

A Storage Hunters omnibus kept us entertained as I iced my leg with a bag of frozen peas. Jay was chowing down a chicken salad and Gadams working his way through a bag of potato waffles, proving that there was more than one way to fuel the body throughout the challenge.

We had earmarked a flat route along the country roads near our farmhouse for the next run - two miles out and two miles back. I traded my t-shirt for a knee-support and as we jogged towards the setting sun I felt night-and-day better than four-hours before. My body was adapting to its shortened circadian rhythm and, now a third of the way into the challenge, run-rest-repeat was becoming ingrained in my brain.

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RUN #5 - 20/48 MILES - 12AM

After forty winks, I awoke at midnight to the news that we’d raised £1,000 for Age UK. Despite it being pitch black outside, a promise was a promise, so we pulled on our skimpy cheerleader costumes as a mark of hitting the milestone, strapped on our head-torches, and headed down to the reservoir. To mix things up we agreed to run anti-clockwise this time, and also to stick together conga-style so as not to get lost or wander off course. There was no moon in the sky to provide natural light, so the power of two AA-batteries was all I had beaming out in front of me.

It proved tricky to navigate the trail with blinkered visibility of about two metres, and the uneven, undulating surface was playing havoc with my stride pattern. This, in turn, put additional pressure on my knee, and twice in the first 400m I had to pull up and stretch out my right leg. Gadams and Jay stood strong in their promise to remain by my side for the 4-miles, however, and their words of encouragement were a God-send. Although the Ibuprofen was kicking in and helping, laughter is the best medicine and I couldn’t feel too downtrodden for long. The ridiculous costumes not only added novelty to our fundraising effort but were also serving as a motivational tool more than I’d ever imagined. No matter how badly I was hurting, the absurdity of running around Yorkshire in a skin-tight cheerleader costume completely took the pressure off and was a welcome distraction for the pain. One foot before the other and my prayers for the car park finish line to materialize in front of us were eventually answered.

With seven runs to go, I was severely doubting whether I was up for completing the challenge. I’d read online beforehand that it was as much a mental test as it was a physical one, and as my head hit the pillow at 1 am for a brief two-hour kip I was beginning to realize why. My mind was in constant motion and that ever-looming threat of the next run was omnipresent. Tick tock. Tick tock. Only three hours to go until we had to face it all over again. Who was going to carry the boats? Who was going carry the logs? We were.

RUN #6 - 24/48 MILES (HALFWAY MARK) - 4AM

A gorgeous sunrise over the countryside fields greeted us upon completion of our sixth run, and with the dawn of a new day came the confidence that I could finish the challenge. It was a huge psychological barrier to hit the halfway mark and after a hearty bowl of porridge and cleanse in the hot tub I felt like a new man. The rollercoaster of pain and emotions was an uncomfortable ride, but one I was now adamant that I wouldn’t fall off.

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RUN #7 - 28/48 MILES - 8AM

After two runs guided by headtorch, it was a welcome sight to be setting off on the seventh run in daylight. We were quickly learning the country roads like the back of our hands, and each turn in the asphalt and gradient change served as a checkpoint: Farmhouse to the end of the driveway – 200m; farmhouse road to Give Way junction – 1 mile; A-road to the reservoir – 1.5 miles. If you’re looking to undertake this challenge, then I strongly recommend you do it in a rural area where the air is cleaner and the grass is greener. A fresh setting also gives you time to think, removes home-life distractions, and allows you to better escape routines.

RUN #8 - 32/48 MILES - 12PM

I was less than one kilometre into the eighth run and could already feel rivers of sweat coming off my forehead and flowing down my spine. The midday sun was so strong that it could have fried an egg on the baking hot tarmac and the ridiculous raver’s wig and floral patterned shirt I had on were not exactly keeping me cool. As each stride took us further into the furnace of Hell, however, we were spurred on by the hollers of encouragement from passing cars.

The Friday traffic was picking up as people traveled to the Dales for the weekend and the sight of three stupidly-dressed men running in unadorned surroundings was putting smiles on dozens of faces. We had personal motivations to complete the challenge, of course, but the fact that we could raise money for a good cause and entertain people at the same time was making it a far more rewarding adventure than I had ever anticipated it would be.

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RUN #9 - 36/48 MILES - 4PM

With two-thirds of the challenge complete, we fell into a false sense of belief that the end was in sight. My whole body was beaten and broke, but I’d become accustomed to the perpetual pain which now persisted even in between runs. It was mind over matter from this point on. Some cloud cover had brought the temperature down and we eased through the ninth run with what felt like a good amount of reserves in the tank. A chicken and sweet potato curry was our reward and straight after dinner, I got some shut-eye before our final daylight run. The sleep deprivation was starting to take its toll.

RUN #10 - 40/48 MILES - 8PM

The cheerleader outfits made a triumphant return for our 8 pm outing, as did the Everest incline that we’d conquered in our banana costumes on run number 2. Setting off, it seemed like a lifetime had passed since then and as the heavens opened the midday heat was now a long-gone memory. The rain came down as heavy as a South-East Asian monsoon and lightning cracked across the sky as my shoes began to fill with water. In a masochistic way, I welcomed this weather warning. It was an opportunity to harden my mind in tougher conditions, and I was relishing the opportunity. Jay and Gadams summited the monster hill a few minutes before I did and had their iPhones at the ready to catch me on tape as I reached the top. ‘Ten down, two to go,’ I smiled, raising my hands to the sky.

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RUN #11 - 44/48 MILES - 12AM

What a difference 4 hours makes. From the excruciating pain of run 3 to cruising run 4 I felt like I’d been healed by Our Lady of Lourdes, but the complete opposite had now happened between runs 10 and 11. Making my way up the driveway I could have been mistaken for trying to imitate a John Wayne western, but a constantly moving bowel and sandpaper-like toilet paper does that to you. Considering my condition, we agreed to just run shuttles back and forth along the farmhouse road until the 6.4 km was complete, and I set off in earnest.

I’d made myself a promise to never walk.  Once that happens, then you’ve succumbed to the mental battle. There were no rules against it, mind you, but had I not run every step of the way I would have felt like a bit of a charlatan. The penultimate run proved to be the slowest and most difficult of the lot as I fought against a sprained ankle for the majority of the distance, but the end was now tantalizingly close.

RUN #12 - 48/48 MILES - 4AM

My final alarm clock went off with the pitch of an air raid siren, but knowing that we were embarking on the final 4-mile victory lap I sprung out of bed ready to empty the tank. It’s somewhat fitting to complete such a mentally and physically exhaustive challenge in the manner that we did. No fanfare. No finish line set up. No crowds cheering us on. Only the sound of our heavy footsteps and breathing accompanied us as our GPS watches ticked over the 48-mile mark at 4:40 am. “You don’t know me, son” I yelled out into the early dawn, beating the rooster’s crow.

My whole body hurt, from my busted knee to my peeling feet to the jabbing pain in my back that felt like I’d been punched in the kidney. But we had completed what we set out to do with fairly minimal fuss and taking the highs and lows in our stride. We stumbled in the front door of the farmhouse, stripped off our sweaty clothes for one last time, and crashed out. With £2,200 raised for Age UK – challenge complete.

If you wish to donate to Age UK and support a fantastic cause, then please visit the link below:

https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/run48hourchallenge

Top 5 of 2019: A Crobs Abroad Year in Review

Glasgow, Scotland, UK • December 2019 • Length of Read: 2 Minutes

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The past twelve months have given me the opportunity to slow down and enjoy the fruits that were planted during my formative years of adulthood. Time, always my most valued commodity, has been at the forefront of all the major decisions I’ve made, and my relationship with Eva has blossomed into something so spectacular and incredible that sometimes I have to pinch myself as a reminder that it’s not just a fairy-tale dream but real.

As will be apparent from the lack of new material produced this year, writing has taken a back-seat to fitness as I’ve created a solid structure around my diet and exercise regime. Despite also seeing changes to my employment and living situations, however, I’ve still managed to cross a few more items off the bucket list and am now a third of the way towards completing the 150 items that were set a decade ago. Some notable trips from this year include visiting my best friend in Dublin, relaxing on the beaches of Crete with my love, golfing with an awesome group of guys in Portugal, and spending quality family time with my brother and parents in Bologna.

On the learning front, geo-politics was a topic that I found of particular interest in 2019 and I also took a shining to the programming on Netflix, my favourite documentaries and series being Ricky Gervais’ After Life, the Obama-endorsed American Factory and Dre’s The Defiant Ones. Three books I couldn’t put down were Talking to Strangers by Malcolm Gladwell, The Jersey by Peter Bills, and Becoming by Michelle Obama.

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And after much deliberation, here are my top five moments of 2019:  

  • Taking a sunset Gondola ride through the canals of Venice with my Eva after a day exploring the islands of Murano and Burano; topped off with a concerto in the piazza.

  • Road-tripping up to Skye with the Tourists, where we bagged a Munro, sampled flights of whisky at a ceilidh with a movie star, and crawled between the taverns of Fort William.

  • Improving my cardio, gymnastics, and weightlifting at Crossfit Glasgow, where I’ve been able to challenge myself physically and mentally in a goal-oriented environment against some awesome training partners.

  • Purchasing a flat and taking my first step onto the property ladder.

  • Relaxing in heated outdoor whirlpools in Chamonix against a backdrop of the glorious snow-capped French Alps.

For the first time in these annual reviews, I’m also going to set myself some goals for the twelve months ahead. I’m not really one for New Year’s Resolutions, preferring to take action in the here-and-now than waiting until January rolls into town, but to kick-start 2020 I’d like to: learn basic conversational Greek, gain the gymnastic strength to string together a set of bar muscle-ups, and make a conscious effort to complain less. After all, I’ve got a new roof over my head and am sitting pretty with the woman I love lying in my bed. Life is more than alright.

Gondola Ride in Venice (Bucket List #120)

Venice, Italy • June 2019 • Length of Read: 5 Minutes

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In days gone by, gondolas were used as the primary means of transporting goods and individuals around the waterways of Venice in northern Italy. More famous than the vessels themselves, however, are their smooth operators. Instantly recognisable in their red striped tops, dark trousers, and straw hats, gondoliers now operate as tour guides as opposed to truck drivers, but the profession is no less noble. Around 400 licenses are in circulation at any one point and these can only be granted once a lengthy apprenticeship has been served and a comprehensive exam passed. Not only do individuals have to master practical boating skills, but also foreign languages and Venetian history. The result of all this: a magical, romantic ride through the city’s antiquated canals against the backdrop of a beautifully unique tapestry.

Eva and I picked up one of these grand vessels from a jetty just under the Rialto Bridge, at the edge of a piazza where dozens of tables sprawled out from compact restaurants and offered fatigued travellers the enviable opportunity to rest their weary feet and enjoy some al fresco drinks and dining. Our gondolier for the standard half-hour time slot was a long-haired silver fox who, before even picking up his oar, offered to take our photo sat on the pillowed throne. A man who definitely knew his audience. Pictures snapped, he then took up a standing position at the rear of the boat and, with a twizzle of the paddle, effortlessly backed us out the parking space; the gondola rocking left and right as we slowly floated our way into the busy thoroughfare where dozens of other copycat boats crisscrossed in an organised web of bedlam.

Navigating down a narrow side street, we were given a brief history of the grandiose buildings that slowly passed us by, but for the most part, our gondolier kept quiet and allowed Eva and I to hold hands and bask in the tranquillity of the lagoon. It was romantic in the most clichéd manner and would make a remarkably tacky wedding proposal, but the cheesy nature of the ride took nothing away from the pleasantry of the experience and the short but sweet trip marked my first bucket list item of 2019 being ticked off.  Most importantly, however, it was the first of what I hope will be many more experiences shared with Eva by my side.

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Following a tourist-trap dinner, we made our way to Piazza San Marco as the sun eventually set, guided through the narrow streets by the ethereal sound of classical music that rose peacefully over the curt choir of American families on their European summer holidays. In the city’s vast main square, we cut through the pods of camera-clad visitors capturing the remarkable Venetian architecture an took a seat at Caffé Florian. The second-oldest café in the world, this establishment has had gentlemanly waiters in pristine white jackets and bowties serving up drinks and cakes since 1720; a live concerto playing soundtrack to the guest’s unique dining experience. Ordering a glass of wine for Eva and a Venetian spitz for myself, we settled down to enjoy the late-night entertainment as the music and setting transported us back in time.

The elderly couple at the table next to us were incredibly well turned out, the bottle of champagne on ice sat atop their table, glistening necklace around the lady’s neck, and well-pressed suit jacket on her husband’s back the most immediate clues that they were living out their retirement in the upper echelons of society. During a break between compositions, the man shuffled his way to the front of the stage and handed the clarinet player a 50 Euro note before uttering a few muffled words in Italian. Upon returning to his seat, the band then burst into a timeless rendition of Happy Birthday, much to the overwhelming delight of his wife. In the city of romance, chivalry certainly isn’t dead.

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The accordion player was a cute, white-haired Italian man; hunched over his instrument with pride and a seemingly permanent smile across his face that made his crow’s feet laughter lines a permanent feature. It was clear that he performed for the love of the music, which is how it should be. “Is anyone here from France?” he asked the audience, attempting to drum up an atmosphere. A few ‘whoops’ came from the tables at the back in response. “Germany?” A smattering of claps from left-of-stage. “China?” A solitary cheer from one couple at the front. “USA?” Raucous applause, what else.

After what felt like a laundry list of nationalities, the entire UN membership having been called upon besides Greece, much to Eva’s annoyance, the band started the second act of their setlist. “No matter where you’re from,” the accordion player continued, “You’ll all know this one. Feel free to sing along.”

With Frank Sinatra and the theme from Pirates of the Caribbean having already been showcased from their repertoire, I was excited to hear their classic take on a blockbuster smash, but what came out the piano and violin was not only foreign to Eva and myself, but seemingly every other nationality represented in the audience that evening. One woman stood at the rear appeared to be unsurely humming along, but even this was more in support than in any great excitement for the song. Nevertheless, the band carried on unperturbed.

As the evening passed in a blur of music and wine, I looked at Eva, raised my glass and smiled. “Thanks for making this bucket list item so magical,” I toasted. “To many more adventures further on up the road.”

“To many more adventures further on up the road,” she smiled.

Chilling in Chamonix

Chamonix-Mont Blanc, France • January 2019 • Length of Read: 8 Minutes

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It was only going to be a matter of time before it happened, I could sense it, and as we pulled into our mid-way stop of the 90-minute bus journey from Geneva Airport to Chamonix that’s when he made his move.

“Do you know if I’ve got enough time to grab a bottle of water?” asked the larger-than-life, middle-aged American sat behind us; his question thankfully directed to the young Frenchman across the aisle as opposed to my girlfriend Eva and me.

“Probably not,” replied the well-spoken local; his perfect English only given away by the sustained accent on the ‘y’. “We’ll be leaving as soon as those people have taken their luggage off the coach,” he politely explained, reaching over and pointing out the window. Conversation over, or so you would have thought.

“Where are you travelling from?” asked the American, deciding that there was more information to be obtained out of the discussion. “I’m from Colorado myself,” he proudly beamed. “That’s in the United States. Have you heard of it?”

“I live in Barcelona, but am travelling home to Chamonix to see my parents,” he replied, deciding to ignore the second part of the question. “I was born up here in the mountains.”

“The mountains back in Colorado are much higher than here,” announced the American, his pompous drawl echoing around the bus and already getting on my nerves. “And our tunnels are longer. A daily ski pass in Aspen can set you back $200, however, so I prefer to fly over to Europe as it’s less expensive. What do you do in Barcelona?”

“I work for a start-up with a few of my close friends. We forage rare, gourmet mushrooms that we then package and sell to high-end restaurants and kitchens.”

 “For drugs?” was the ignorant exclamation.

“No, to cook with,” laughed the Frenchman, miraculously managing to keep his composure.

 “Well, the French do love their food,” chuckled the American, unfazed by his blunder, and the fact that Barcelona is in Spain. “You can get a train through the valley here, can’t you?” he then asked, changing his track. “I missed a flight once in Zurich because the train was too prompt. It left the airport station before I had time to get my things together and disembark onto the platform. So, is Chamonix-Sud far from Chamonix? I have a lot of stuff and am hoping that it’s not too far to go once the coach terminates.”

“Chamonix-Sud just means South Chamonix,” explained the Frenchman. “And the town is so small that you can get anywhere in less than ten minutes walking.”

“Perfect. I’m old and decrepit, you see, so can’t be doing too much lugging around of heavy cases. Well, that’s the joke I tell people. You know what this word ‘decrepit’ means?”

Unable to take any more of this barrage of ignorance, I plugged in my iPod, pressed play on a Ricky Gervais XFM podcast and, giving a teething glance towards Eva, closed my eyes and pretended to sleep for the rest of the journey.

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As we pulled into Chamonix bus station, the windscreen wipers of the coach brushed away the fluttering snow that has started to fall. I changed into my hiking boots at the first opportunity and, leaving the American behind with a sign of relief, Eva and I trudged along the narrow pavement in the direction of our rented apartment; the snow crunching underfoot as a disjointed trail of suitcase wheels was left in our wake.

The town had a beautiful, antiquated feel, with the white rooftops of the high-end shops, hotels, and restaurants a pleasant contrast to the heated patio seating that sprawled out of entranceways into the babbling streets. Thirsty skiers huddled around the flames, wrapped in blankets and with glasses of beer clenched between their gloved hands. It was like looking back to the campfire communities of old. Fantastic, commissioned graffiti covered the bare sides of buildings, putting a modern twist on the history of the town, and the omnipresent backdrop of the Alps sent a shudder of excitement down my spine every time I glanced skywards.

We were starving after the journey, and I had a particular location in mind. Whilst reading the autobiography of Kenton Cool, a mountaineer who has summited Everest 14-times and counting, he recalls one summer when he guided the legendary Sir Ranulph Fiennes to the top of the Matterhorn, one of Europe’s most famous peak. The pair had met in Chamonix during one of their briefing sessions, and Cool raves about, ‘a great little place called Munchie, tucked away down a small cobbled street called Rue des Moulins. The staff are all beautiful Swedish girls, the atmosphere is nice, and they serve the best starter in Chamonix: a basket of Greenlandic grilled shrimp’.

Dumping our bags at the apartment, we wrapped up and got to the restaurant bang on time for our 8pm dinner reservation. Munchie did indeed have an inviting and quaint vibe, providing a relaxing setting for Eva and myself to cheers our holiday with a glass of white wine and pinch our chopsticks around a selection of Asian-infused tapas dishes, including salmon sushi rolls, steamed pork dumplings and grilled aubergine. The next day was my girlfriend’s 24th birthday and Chamonix was proving to be a joyous place to spend it.

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“Happy birthday,” I cheered as Eva rubbed her bleary, big, brown eyes. “Look out the window.”

From our apartment bed, we could see the towering presence of Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest mountain. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the snowy peak that rises to 4,808m stood proudly in all its glory. Having visited Everest Base Camp last year, I’ve gained a newfound understanding as to why our distant ancestors worshipped mountains as gods. There is something omniscient and omnipotent about them that makes you put faith in their grandiosity. As Eva opened her gifts, I prepared some avocado and eggs on toast for breakfast, and we sat on the balcony inhaling the food almost as quickly as the crisp, morning air. It was the perfect altitude adjustment.

We had a morning of health and wellbeing ahead of us, so after breakfast we layered up and shuffled our way through the snow in the direction of the QC Terme Spa. With Google Maps as our trusted navigator we started off in the right direction, but soon the tech became a bit dizzy and dysfunctional as the mountains disoriented the satellite signal. Having crossed an active ski route, we were then instructed to ‘turn left’ into a builders’ yard before ‘continuing straight for 400m’ past signs warning us to wear hard hats and take cation of the heavy machinery. Hopping a chain-linked fence, we then proceeded off-piste through a small forest, guided only by animal tracks, before eventually finding ourselves in the rear of the spa’s car park. It could have been a children’s pool from a local leisure centre waiting for us and I would have been happy enough to pay the €52 entrance fee just sit down and chill for a moment. Perhaps that was their business plan after all?

As it turned out, the Italian-owned thermal baths were pure tranquillity, and Eva and I spend the entire morning floating in the outdoor heated springs, clearing our pores in the tartan-themed sauna, meditating under waterfalls, and relaxing next to the fireplace as the sun poured through the slits in the wooden blinds. We then freshened up with a selection of creams and salts before slipping on bathrobes and enjoying some salad and champagne in the restaurant. It was complete bliss.

I could have stayed there all day, but we had a second activity to fit in, so getting changed we exited out through the main gate and followed the well-ploughed path back into town, giving Google Maps the afternoon off. After a quick pit-stop for a hot chocolate and a cake, we then joined the queue for the Aiguille du Midi cable car.

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From an altitude of 1,035m in Chamonix, the cable car swung its way securely up over the white forest and rocky outcrops of the needle-shaped spire until we reached the 3,842m peak. Eva, still dressed for a fashionable pampering session as opposed to a mountaineering expedition, almost froze her ankles off as the -21°C wind-chill swirled around the viewing gallery at the top. Some serious skiers and harnessed climbers chatted nervously as they prepared themselves for their respective doses of adrenaline, and despite having hiked up to 5,600m during my Everest Base Camp trek I began to feel light-headed.

In addition to staring in awe at the panoramic vista, the cable car station also boasted an exhibit dedicated to altitude sickness, a restaurant, and a tube that had been burrowed through the rock in a remarkable feat of engineering. This grants access for tourist to Step Into the Void®, a glass box that hangs off the side of Aiguille du Midi and gives you the opportunity to overcome vertigo by sky-walking with over 1,000m of emptiness beneath your feet. Mont Blanc looked perilously close for my adventurous mind, and the thought of coming back to attempt a summit played on my brain for the remainder of the time we spent up there.

Back on terra firma, however, and the safety of our cosy apartment, this thought dissipated as I cuddled down with Eva to watch a movie. Lighting some birthday candles, I surprised her with a chocolate cake and, making a wish, she blew out the lights on what had been a lovely couple of days.

 

Bibliography:

One Man’s Everest: The Autobiography of Kenton Cool (Arrow; Reprint edition, 2016)

Geriatric Geneva

Geneva, Switzerland • January 2019 • Length of Read: 4 Minutes  

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The ice-cold wind blowing across Lake Geneva cut right through us as we strolled along the harbour, piercing my jacket and rattling my bones. It was a crisp winter’s day in the Swiss municipality, and my girlfriend Eva and I were exploring the city for a few hours before heading to the airport; having made our way down from the French alpine town of Chamonix that morning.

Not that there’s much in the way to uncover in Geneva, as we quickly discovered. I usually relish in the opportunity to pull back the skin of a city and find out what makes its heart beat, but it was as if the winter chills had caused the blood flow of Switzerland’s second-largest city to stop. The ‘old town’ was barren, a mass exodus of people leaving only a handful of grey-haired veterans braving the conditions as they played chess in the park. The internationally-famed financial district bore a striking character resemblance to the graveyard that lay across the street, a mortician’s dream. The myriad clothing boutiques and top brand watchmakers appeared devoid of the usual upper-class gentry, world-class window shopping gone to waste.

According to the guidebooks, one of the city’s must-see tourist attractions is the Jet d’Eau; a ‘tremendous fountain’ and Geneva’s ‘most prominent landmark’. In reality, however, it’s nothing special. Expecting a Las Vegas-style production of lights and sound, or captivating Disneyland-esque performance, we were greeted at the pier by a solitary water cannon spraying a single continuous jet of murky water 150m into the sky. All boats and barges were moored up, and the only activity on the lake was a few confused cygnets prancing about the shore. As one TripAdvisor review poetically puts it, ‘only worth visiting as there are hardly any other things to do in Geneva.’

Having exhausted all possibilities in this abandoned theme park of excitement, we found a little café, warmed ourselves up with a couple of cappuccinos and slice of apple pie, then paid the €17 bill and hopped on a train to the airport two hours early.

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“How was your holiday?” asked one of my colleagues at work the next morning as I yawned my way into the office. Our flight had landed twenty minutes early but the unfavourable Edinburgh Airport bus timetable had prevented me from getting to sleep before midnight. “Did you pass through Geneva at all? I worked out there for seven months at the turn of the century.”

“We did, actually. It was eh…” I replied, pausing for an instance to measure up how she’d react to my unenthusiastic tone. “Historic,” I punted for. “Geneva was quite historic.”

“I found it such a boring place to live,” she unloaded as I exhaled a sharp breath. “There’s really nothing to do.”

“Perhaps it comes to life in the summer,” I conservatively suggested. “The cold weather really didn’t aid its cause. I couldn’t help but notice the distinct lack of artistic attraction, student population, or restaurants, however.”

“I was there right through the depths of winter,” my colleague laughed. “From October to April. It was back when video rental stores were still a thing and my Blockbuster membership card quickly became my best friend. In the typical French way, there wasn’t a massive English-language selection, so I found myself renting Friends box-sets and binge-watching them to get me through the weekends.”

“I don’t envy the individual charged with spearheading the city’s tourism board,” I quipped.

“This is a bit sad to admit,” she continued, “but when I got fed up of being confined indoors I used to find an Irish Pub and just sit there like a barfly until someone interesting came along to have a conversation with.”

“There are worse ways to pass the time,” I consoled.

“But worst of all was the supermarkets. There seemed to be a blanket ban against imported goods, so everything was locally sourced and branded. It seemed nice at first, but when you’re wandering around the aisles trying to figure out what anything actually is, it gets really tiring. Like, ‘is this cottage cheese or semi-skimmed milk?’ Who knows, let’s take a guess.”

“At least the train ran like clockwork,” I concluded. “I wouldn’t have wanted to stay there any longer than necessary.”

“Swiss efficiency to the rescue.”